The “Understand” post focused on the general science behind the Torr Kitchen (tK) vacuum still component system. This post will emphasize hands-on engagement, putting it together and primarily, its operation. It was a long time in the making and I’m excited to share this economical and fun approach to tackle the costly and burdensome ethanol recovery issue home crafters face. Everything here is based on and closely related to traditional distillation technology. I’m just rewriting it with efficiency, value, and the kitchen in mind. Every time someone thanks me, saying, “I was intimidated, but it was WAY easier than it looked,” it motivates me to keep going, and we’re finally here. There are a lot of words and information, but relax and know resolutely, it’s not that hard, and it’s more fun than you can imagine once we get through the introduction and get your feet wet.

LEARNING, ATTENTION, VALUE

It takes up a little space and requires some hands-on attention, but any worthwhile craft requires that. There are numerous advantages to a component system. It’s customizable and offers great control. A problem with an individual part won’t ruin the entire system. Torr Kitchen (tK) has made a concerted effort to design components that can be utilized in multiple ways and combinations. One system with many applications.  It’s better, faster, cheaper, provides greater value, and is more enjoyable than any alternative, making it worthwhile to invest the small effort needed to learn how to use it.

 

 

VACUUM STILL SYSTEM COMPONENTS

 

 

OPERATING CONCEPTS

Heat Application

Understanding how much heat to apply can be confusing without first grasping the relationship between boiling points and vacuum.  The boiling point of water at sea level is 212°F. Therefore, at a full boil on the stove, the temperature cannot exceed 212°F, regardless of how much heating power is applied. If more heat is applied, the boiling becomes more vigorous, increasing the vapor generation rate, but the temperature will not rise. The water absorbs the additional heating energy and releases it through the phase change from liquid to gas. This energy release prevents the pot from getting too hot until all the water has evaporated. After that, the pot can absorb enough heat to the point that it may eventually melt.

Using vacuum, the boiling point of ethanol can be lowered to around 100°F. As long as the vacuum level is kept steady, the ethanol will maintain a consistent boil at that temperature. Increased heating input increases evaporation, while less input reduces it. Below is a chart from data collected by Gilles Desormeaux illustrating how ethanol boiling points change at various pressure levels.

The critical takeaway is that the table shows that processing at  101°F only requires 80% of full vacuum. During processing, this will show up on the LVL gauge as 5.5 inHg less than the maximum achievable vacuum level at your location (if the maximum achievable vacuum at your location is unfamiliar, see this What The Vacuum Gauge Says). That gives us a lot of room to work.

Lastly, it’s essential to understand that if we target a processing temperature of around 100°F, the heat energy required is greater to drive boiling and vapor generation. The heat energy input must be managed to be high enough for controlled boiling, yet low enough to avoid generating excessive vapor that could overwhelm the condenser. This range seems to be approximately 120°F-160°F.

 

Balance - General Idea

It’s not a formal scientific term, but I use it to describe the system’s ideal state. It’s where heat, vacuum, and cooling create vapor, condense it, and collect it in a self-sustaining process at a reasonable pace without needing to operate the vacuum pump. We seek balance. It’s easy to achieve, and when it hits, it’s like an incredibly Zen-like cruise control.

In balance:
Heat and vacuum work together nicely to produce a consistent, even boil, smooth flow of vapor from the LV into the condenser, and steady and easy movement of condensed ethanol from the condenser into the RV. The RV pressure remains steady. The exit port and tubing from the condenser should feel room temperature or cooler to the touch.

Out of balance (1): nothing is happening.
Either heat, vacuum, or both may be inadequate. Check to ensure the system is actually under vacuum and that the level is within the expected range. If it’s within the right range but has a steadily declining trend, there may be a leak. If the vacuum level is correct and holds steady, the issue should be resolved by adding some heat input.

Out of balance (2): too much is happening.
If the boiling action is aggressive and vapor shoots through the condenser into the RV, there’s too much heat being applied. The exit tubing from the condenser will become warm to the touch, and the RV pressure will rise. Reducing the heat input should restore balance.

 

RUN IT!

PREPARATION

Preparing the system for action is quite easy, and doing so properly will help ensure a smooth operation. As you gain experience, your preferred methods might evolve, but this serves as a great starting point. Here are several important preparation points.

Eliminate Hazards: Ensure the area is well-ventilated, free from ignition sources, and clear of tripping hazards.

Connect Components: Connect the components according to how they will be used. Connect them with the transfer tubing. It’s best to take advantage of gravity and arrange the RV below the condenser, with the vapor, condensing, and reclaim movement flowing downhill like a dreamy waterfall. The downward flow helps the system self-clear.

Vacuum Test: Pull maximum vacuum, close the system, turn off the pump, and wait for 30 minutes. If it holds, let her fly. If it doesn’t, find the leak, fix it, and test again before proceeding.

Important: The lids may require some downward pressure or slight wetting with ethanol around the rim to create an initial vacuum seal, particularly with new seals. However, do not apply pressure to the LVL while it is on the IH cooker, as this could damage the equipment.

Pre-Cool Condenser: Give the system a little head start by cooling the condenser early with a water bath while waiting for the vacuum testing. The condenser is going to be busy, so it should be completely filled with ice, and then add enough water for a loose ice bath. This is also an ideal time to put the RV on ice.

For one run of the small system, the 2-gallon condenser will need about one small (7 lb) bag of ice. Depending on volume and ambient temperature, the 5-gallon condenser will need 1-2 large (16 lb) bags. Always get extra ice just in case the process runs long.

 

OPERATION

It’s go time! Do yourself a favor and ensure you aren’t rushing or distracted while operating the system. All the hard work of the extraction process has been done. From here, all that’s required is a little time, attention, and patience to let the system run.

Load LV: Pour the tincture/wash into LV and cover it with LVL. Confirm there is about 1.5 inches of headspace between the liquid and the vapor exit hardware. This space is necessary to prevent boiling wash from being sucked through the system. If that does occur, it’s not an issue; the only consequence is that the reclaim won’t be completely clear.

Important: Aerating the tincture/wash is essential for even and smooth boiling. Ethanol that has previously been under vacuum can have difficulty getting to a nice boiling pattern. To aerate, put the wash in a jar with a little headspace and give it a good shake for 10 seconds. That's all there is to it and it makes a world of difference.

Apply Vacuum: Initiate the ethanol recovery process by closing the LVL valve, opening the pump valve, and activating the vacuum pump. Observe the vacuum gauges for swift movement to confirm a proper vacuum seal. After reaching the maximum achievable vacuum, close the valve and turn off the pump.

If the vacuum doesn’t take right away, the lids may need a bit of downward pressure or slight wetting (with ethanol) around the rim to establish an initial vacuum seal. However, do not push down on the LVL while on the IH cooker; doing so will damage the cooker.

(See What the Vacuum Gauge Says) for information on maximum achievable vacuum)

Apply Heat: Set the IH cooker to power level 5 and a temperature of 125°F-140°F to start a smooth, calm boil and avoid sucking wash into the vapor port. If running for more than 1 hour, the timer must be set, or the safety auto-shutoff will shut down at just over 1 hour.

Look for Balance: The LVL gauge will show a loss of vacuum due to the vapor generation in a closed environment causing an increase in pressure, but that should steady quickly. The RVL gauge should remain close to where it started, with a little loss and remain steady. Once balance is settled in, condensate should quickly begin trickling out of the condenser. From here the process should chug along quietly, in balance, without the need to intervene.

Manage System: While the process progresses, individuals often feel the urge to interfere, toggling the pump or increasing the heat. If the pressures in the LV and RV remain stable, with the loss of only a couple inHg, there is no need to make adjustments.

Increasing the system's temperature to accelerate production rates doesn't work effectively due to the finite scale of system design. Instead, the system becomes overwhelmed, which raises pressure and processing temperatures.  Maintaining a temperature range of 125°F to 140°F should work well.  There's really no need to rush it, the system moves along pretty quickly.

The system operates effectively when the gauges remain steady and condensed liquid flows consistently and smoothly from the condenser into the RV. The process is balanced, smooth, and uneventful. Here are some indicators that too much heat is being applied.

Reduce heat when:
Overly aggressive boiling in LV
The LV feels hot
Vapor shooting into RV aggressively
Vapor clouding or misting the RVL
Condenser exit & tubing feel warm

Manage Condenser: The condenser is designed to use one load of ice per run. If it becomes necessary to add ice and remove some water, it's easy to do. My favorite technique is the 1970's method of siphoning gas from a car with a short hose. For those inexperienced with such exploits, using a bowl to remove some water works well too.

In-Process Feed Option: Attach the feed tube to the LVL ball valve barb, with the other end in a jar containing the wash. Slowly open the valve, and the wash will be drawn into the LV. Never add more wash than the recovery vessel can hold, including what will evacuate from the condenser at the end of the process.

 

DECIDING TO FINISH

It is INCREDIBLY IMPORTANT to pay attention at the end of the process. Do not leave it unattended. If the system continues to run after the ethanol has been evaporated, the heat in the LV will rise quickly and everything can get very hot. This can become a dangerous situation causing component failure and excessively hot surfaces. 

“How do I know it’s done?” is the most frequently asked question I encounter. There is a wide range of acceptable points at which to finish the process and stop the system. The progress from liquid to thicker oil is easily observable by tilting the LV so the contents move across its bottom. When it looks like what you want, it’s time to finish.

Waterlike liquid: The liquid state makes collecting the finished product the easiest. This is the best point for many botanical concentrates. It can either be used as a concentrated tincture or finished with open-air evaporation on a silicon warming mat.

OR

Go to Oil: Taking it to a thick oil yields the most concentrated end product, but it can be tricky to collect. You need to move like a fast and furious ninja with a silicone spatula as your weapon before it starts to cool. It’s already sticky and becomes even stickier as it cools.

Stop and Open: When the extract’s consistency is just right, turn off the cooker's power and release the vacuum slowly from the LVL valve. If the valve is opened quickly, it will blow the extract around the LV and race air through the system violently. You want to take it easy on your system and allow this to happen slowly and under control.

Note of Interest: When ambient pressure is reintroduced, the pot's temperature and contents quickly rise about 10°F. You can watch it climb if you hit it with an IR temperature gun. It’s pretty neat.

Collect: Open the LV to collect the concentrate using a silicone spatula. After the concentrate has been collected and taken care of, run the pump with the LVL off the LV to draw air through the system and flush the condenser for a minute. Finally, collect and safely store the reclaimed ethanol for reuse.

Congratulate Yourself: Take a minute to appreciate the great work you did. Jump up and down, clap, and yell out the window how easy it was. If it happens to cross your mind, mention my name;)

 

TORR KITCHEN SYSTEM COMPONENTS

IH Heat Source

Induction heating (IH) cookers are amazing because they are very fast and accurate, with power control, a programmable timer, even heat dispersion, no exposed hot plate surface, and a low profile with a large surface area for stability and safety. It’s great with the system and even more impressive on it’s own in the kitchen.

Important:
1) IH cookers are only compatible with IH-compatible cookware.
2) The timer should be set if it is used for more than 1 hour; otherwise, the safety shutoff will activate.
3) Never use the IH cooker as a warming tool, such as a heated vacuum chamber, for post-processing extracts. An empty, dry pot will overheat both the pot and the surface of the cooker.

 

 

Loading Vessel (LV)

This is literally the steam engine where vapor is generated, controlled, and drives the system's flow. To optimize control and efficiency, tK adapted the latest hybrid construction technology from the culinary world for an even boiling pattern and optimal vapor production environment.

 

 

Loading Vessel Lid (LVL)

The tK lids are exceptional and designed specifically for home distillation needs. They are made of tempered glass for strength and chemical resistance, featuring high-grade custom-designed silicone seals and hardware for enhanced performance. The lid includes a large vapor port for excellent vapor flow, a valve that serves as both a vacuum break and an in-process feed, and a gauge to monitor vacuum levels in the LV.

Important: Exercise caution when attaching and detaching tubing from the barbed ports.  The hardware is secured to glass, which can be damaged due to rough handling.  If the tubing is difficult to remove, cut it rather than forcing it to prevent damage.

 

 

Torr-nado Condenser

The most designed to be simple yet complex component I know of. Differential pressure flow, cooling, phase change, and liquid flow dynamics are balanced using gravity in concert with our unassuming torr-nado ladder, integrated vapor breaks, and undisclosed trade secrets. Custom 1/4 inch stainless barbs allow for easy connections. It’s almost embarrassing how simple this looks, but make no mistake about how much thought went into the minutia. This simple guy ain’t so simple.

 

 

Reclaim Vessel Lid (RVL)

The RVL contains the same components as the LVL, but the straight port is smaller for connecting to the condenser. The ball valve connects to the pump, and an additional gauge allows for monitoring the vacuum level at the recovery end of the system.

Important: Exercise caution when attaching and detaching tubing from the barbed ports.  The hardware is secured to glass, which can be damaged due to rough handling. If the tubing is difficult to remove, cut it rather than forcing it to prevent damage.

 

 

Reclaim Vessel (RV)

The RV is a high-quality stainless steel pot designed without handles that can get in the way or compromise vacuum. The large, easy-grip lip was designed for worry-free, mess-free pouring. This pot serves double duty in the kitchen with the IH cooker in countless ways.

 

 

Vacuum Pump

Ethanol vapor is tricky when it comes to pumps. This diaphragm pump has been customized with essential modifications for our use in ethanol distillation:

•  Chemical-resistant Ethylene-Propylene-Diene Monomer (EPDM) heads.
•  Upgraded motor to start under vacuum.  
•  Wider, suction cup feet for stability.
•  Large quick-connect for tubing connecting directly to LVL.

Also included are the exhaust muffler, an intake filter with a catch, and 1.5 meters of vacuum tubing.

 

 

Transfer Tubing

Food-safe, ethanol-resistant transfer tubing connects components and transfers air, vapor, and liquid through the system. The tubing has an internal diameter of 3/8 inches (ID), 5/8 inches (OD) from the LV to the condenser and 1/4 inch (ID), 1/2 inch (OD) from the condenser to the RV. Three feet of each size tubing are included with the sets.

 

 

ADDITIONAL USEFUL ACCESSORIES

Cooling Pan
Any shallow pan that can hold ice is perfect for cooling the RV. This method significantly improves efficiency. While it's highly recommended to use, there's no need to spend money on it; simply use something you already have in the kitchen.

 

Quick Connects

Quick-release connections are convenient for in-line use, allowing easy connection of components without struggling with tubing on the barbs. They are also essential as terminations on tubing during vacuum testing of components individually. Keeping a couple of sets on hand is quite useful.

 

Hose Clamps
Hose clamps are recommended for all connections with tubing that is frequently removed. This small thing can save a lot of headaches if anything starts leaking. Butterfly clamps are the easiest to use. The clamps need to fit the outside diameter of the tubing, which is 1/2 inch and 5/8 inch.

 

Warming Mat

The warming mat is useful in the lab and kitchen. Since the IH cooker cannot be used with dry and empty pots, this mat steps in for gently warming a vacuum chamber, Pyrex dish, or silicone mat for post-processing.

SAFETY CAUTION - PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK

Safety considerations and cautions must be taken very seriously! Ethanol is highly flammable and can be extremely dangerous. Anyone deciding to work with these operations does so at their own risk.  What I present here should not be considered fully comprehensive or exhaustive, and everyone is responsible for their own safety review. The essential safety considerations required without compromise include having excellent ventilation and eliminating ignition sources in the area. Additionally, general fire prevention measures for highly flammable liquids must be carefully observed at every step. Very importantly, never leave the system unattended or any component plugged in when not in use.

It’s incredibly important to know exactly what material is being used in tubing and confirm that it’s rated to work with ethanol at the processing temp. Failure to do so can result in potentially dangerous chemicals leaching into the finished product. Anyone buying distillation equipment is responsible for checking and double-checking that every component is safe before use.

 

Videos and useful content coming soon!